Category Archives: Places to See

Mamulengo Museum: Olinda

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“Mamulengo is a type of puppet performance popular in the Northeast of Brazil, especially in the state of Pernambuco. The origin of the name is unclear, but it is believed that it originated with the Portuguese phrase mão molenga, meaning “soft hand”, ideal for giving lively movements to a puppet.

The city of Olinda has a Museum of Mamulengo, dedicated to preserving the art of mamulengo puppetry. The museum has a collection of antique mamulengo puppets. It also honours the popular masters of the art, such as Saúba, Tonho de Pombos, Luiz da Serra, Pedro Rosa, Zé Lopes, Antônio Biló, and Manuel Marcelino.”

The museum is located in an eclectic building that showcases colonial design and late nineteenth century architecture. It was acquired by the Pró-Memória Foundation and IPHAN in August of 1984 and the museum was inaugurated ten years later, on December 14th, 1994.

The “Museu do Mamulengo – Espaço Tiridá”, its official name, is an artistic, playful and magical place. Artistic due to the quantity and quality of its wonderful collection (approximately 1,200 antique and contemporary dolls), playful for what it offers its audience and magical because through the dolls the visitor or researcher penetrates a provocative world with its own language. The creation of the museum’s main mamulengo collection emerged in the 70s, when participants of the mamulengo group Só-Riso decided to invest in the acquisition of dolls by mamulengo masters and who were of old age and without heirs. The group saw the dolls being sold as mere decoration and decided to buy and preserve them. When the musuem opened, the one-of-a-kind pieces were donated.

Address: Rua de São Bento, nº 344 – Ribeira/Olinda/PE.
Contact: (81) 3493-2753
Hours: Tue. – Sat. – 10am to 5pm
Admission: R$2,00 (full-price) and R$1,00 (half-price)
Image & Info from Olinda Fashion & Wikipedia
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Five places you should know

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“The economic growth of Pernambuco can be seen in the cultural life of Recife. Each month, there are new bars and restaurants inaugurated, more open-air events, a diverse list of shows and interesting commercial attractions. Pernambuco.com elected five places (PT) that are making themselves known in this new Recife: a nighttime venue, a soccer stadium, a gastronomic pole, a Capibaribe beach and even the good ol’ Marco Zero. Discover why they were chosen…”

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Cinema São Luiz

 Here’s an article (translated below) by Globo from September, 2012.

“If the experience of seeing a movie in the theater is very different from watching it on the couch at home or on the computer screen, watching the same film in a theater like São Luiz, in Recife, can bring an even more pleasurable experience. Inaugurated on September 6, 1952 by the Severiano Ribeiro group, the theater that borders the Rio Capibaribe celebrates 60 years on Thursday (the 6th), and is considered a historical monument since 2008, when it was declared as such by the Artistic Heritage Foundation of Pernambuco (FUNDARPE). With its stained glass lights, its velvet curtain, the details that go from floor to ceiling and the Lula Cardoso Ayres panel at the entrance, the São Luiz is the greatest movie reference in a city that, in the early twentieth century, has had hundreds of neighborhood cinemas.

With many years of operation, this Aurora Street theater is present in the cinematic memory of many people of Recife. Among them, the journalist and researcher Alexander Figueirôa, who remembers how the theater was known for its big releases: “A debut that I’ll never forget is that of ‘The Wall’, by Pink Floyd and directed by Alan Parker. For me, art cinema was the Coliseu, while the São Luiz was for the great movies, where they showed the most important releases.”

Another cinematic name of Pernambuco, journalist and filmmaker Kleber Mendonça Filho says he’s part of the group of people that began to experience the ‘seventh art’ in one of the armchairs of São Luiz. “The great cliché is that, in fact, was the first theater which I was taken to. But it really was, my mother always said, I think it was a marathon of ‘Tom and Jerry’. And São Luiz is part of my training, even though my favorite theater was actually the Veneza which was a little smaller and where I felt more comfortable,” said Kleber.

For the current programmer of the São Luiz, Geraldo Pine, who has also spent time in the Parque and Apolo Cinemas, the architecture of the theater is more impressing than the films that were shown, when he first started coming to the place. “The first time I went was in 1961, the theater was to celebrate its first 10 years and I watched ‘La Violetera’ with Sarita Montiel. Today the theater will turn 60 and I, 62. I aged, I’ve got white hair and he (the São Luiz) is still there, stately, beautiful. It is an exhibition house that dignifies what we call cinema. And that’s what always struck me, because I was born in Santos (SP), attended a theater in the periphery, and when I came to Recife, I was taken there and that’s when I saw the city’s downtown area for the first time, the bridges, the river, and theater…It made such an impact that I never forgot it,” he says.

Pine says that, from then on, the relationship of admiration with theater was born: “I had never seen such a thing of beauty. It went on attracting me, not only for movies, but for what it is, the beauty that you continue to discover daily in the details. It was a turning point, even today I consider it the most beautiful theater I’ve ever been to. Some people think that to make a theater all one needs is a screen and darkness, but no.”

Cinema São Luiz
Rua da Aurora, 175, Boa Vista – Recife-PE

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Caminhos de Recife

Caminhos de Recife by Julio Brunet

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Brazil’s 1st Anti-Torture monument


(source, via Wikipedia)

At the cross streets of Avenida Mário Melo and Rua da Aurora, at the Praça Padre Henrique in the neighborhood of Boa Vista, there’s a monument that’s hard to miss. Its purpose is to honor political ‘dissidents’ who were ‘disappeared’ during the military dictatorship in Brazil.

The monument itself is the result of a 1988 competition held by the city of Recife and the movement Torture, Never Again, in which more than 20 teams of artists and architects participated for a chance to win. The announcement of the winner, Demetrio Albuquerque,  also included an announcement to redevelop the area. The sculpture was built five years later through an agreement with the Brazilian Portland Cement Association, which wanted a cement-based exhibition space on the edge of the Capibaribe river. The monument was finally inaugurated on August 27, 1993 at 10 am with the presence of political leaders and relatives of dead and missing politicians.

The sculpture of the man is in a fetal position with reference to the position of torture called “parrot stick.” His face is turned away, toward the river. This symbology was chosen as an emblem of the actual conditions of the tortured during the military regime and, more than that, as a representation of the human condition, degradation, isolation, exclusion and abandonment that many felt during those times in Brazil.

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Black Tuesdays in Santo Antonio

Terças Negras is a weekly get together celebrating Afro-Brazilian culture at the São Pedro Patio/Plaza, in the neighborhood of Santo Antônio in Recife. It’s a free, open-air event which started in 2001 and is put on by a partnership between the local government and the MNU (Movimento Negro Unificado). It starts at 8PM.

From a 2008 article I came across about the event,

“They come from everywhere. Black, white or brown. Heterosexual or homosexual. An atmosphere of pure freedom gives way to an audience of, on average, 1,500 people*. They are the faithful, the casual or just curious. Everyone is welcome to honor African culture.

Diverging or not in styles and opinions, everyone comes in peace. “Black Tuesdays has lost its focus, which is the praising of African culture. People that come these days just want to have fun”, says student and musician Bruno Ricardo da Silva, who has been coming to the event for 4 years. At the same time, businessman Luiz Parreiras thinks the opposite. “It’s an excellent project that spreads African culture perfectly”.

Diversity is also present in the mix. There’s groups playing coco, maracatu, and reggae. And, of course, afoxés. Some of them have been going strong for over 100 years. The groups, which play throughout the year, used to only get visibility during Carnival time. “When the project started there were about 12 afoxés, today there are 21″, says the cultural coordinator of the MNU-PE and Terça Negra producer, Almir Miranda da Hora.”

* – That number seems a bit fuzzy to me.

PS – Here’s a beautiful picture of the plaza during the day.

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Abolition Museum

“The MAB has the primary mission to rescue, valorize and recognize material and non-material Afro-Brazilian patrimony, contributing to the strengthening of the identity and citizenry of the Brazilian people.” It has opened and closed many, many times in its history but the message behind the museum is important and it always finds a way to reopen.

You can see some cool photos of one of their exhibitions here on Flickr.


Rua Benfica, 1150 – Madalena
Recife – Pernambuco – Brasil
Cep: 50720-001
Tel.: +55 81 3228-3248
Site

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Oficina Brennand Virtual Tour

On Pernambuco.com you can take a virtual tour of the Oficina Brennand. Check it out!

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Oficina Brennand – Recife

I was looking at a tourism magazine from Recife called Recife Te Quer, from January of 2008 that a good friend sent me via mail a few years back and I found a really cool building with suggestive sculptures called Oficina Brennand. What follows is a bit on the location and the Pernambucan artist behind it, which I borrowed and translated from the official site. First, a few words on the artist Francisco Brennard, by acclaimed novelist Jorge Amado.

“Today he is unique – him and only him – a Brazilian artist with an assured place in the club of the principal (artists) of contemporary art. Of such importance, that alone he proclaims the universality of Brazilian art.”

Oficina Brennand

The Oficina Brennand came about in 1971 in the ruins of the ceramic factory dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, as a materialization of recalcitrant project of the artist Francisco Brennard. An old brick and roofing factory inherited by his father, installed on a piece of property called Santos Cosme and Damião, it lies in the historic neighborhood of Várzea, surrounded by what remains of the Atlantic Forest and on the waters of the Capibaribe river. The ceramics of São João (the former sugar plantation where the current property lies) became the inspiring source and depository of the story of the Pernambucan artist.

A unique place in the world, the Oficina Brennand can be found in a monumental architectural conjunct of originality, in a constant process of mutation, where the works associate themselves with the architecture to give form to subterranean, dark, sexual, religious, wild and abyssal universe.

The presence of the artist in his continuous work of creation gives the Oficina a daring character, identifying it as an intrinsically alive institution and with a dynamic that leaves the future of the project a mystery, even to the one who is creating it.

Visitation hours are from 8AM to 5PM, from Monday to Thursday and 8AM to 4PM on Friday. The admission fee is R$4.

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