Category Archives: Pernambuco

The Legacy of Mestre Salu

Mestre Salustiano - Mais Pernambuco

Salustiano Manuel Soares, better known as Mestre Salustiano (Aliança, 1945 – Recife, 2008) was a man of endless talent (musician, actor, composer, artisan, teacher, etc). Born in the Zona da Mata in inland Pernambuco, and having worked as a sugarcane cutter, he was influenced by his father who played the rabeca, or fiddle. After being taught how to play as well as how to make his own fiddles (which were sought after), he started to explore his artistic side.

The Mestre loved to participate in the Cavalo-Marinho (similar to Bumba-Meu-Boi) and became one of the most well-known dancers of it in the region, thus receiving the title of Mestre, or master. He was considered a leading authority on popular Pernambucan culture and founded the maracatu rural called Piaba de Ouro, which ended up being invited to play in Cuba. Traveling was nothing new, for he took his music and art all over Brazil, to Bolivia, France and the US.

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As if all the roles he assumed weren’t enough, Mestre Salustiano was a mamulengueiro (puppet-maker) and his puppets can be seen in the Museum of Mamulengos in Olinda. Just outside Olinda, in Tabajara (where 5 of his 15 children live), one can find more of his good deeds in the form of the Casa da Rabeca do Brasil, which is a cultural space he started and a continuation of the cultural preservation work he did previously at the Iluminara Zumbi, also in Tabajara.

In 2007, a year before he passed away from Chagas disease, he was honored for his 54 year career and received the title of “Living Heritage of Pernambuco”. He is also known as the spritual patron of the manguebeat movement and inspired the music of Chico Science, Nação Zumbi and DJ Dolores, among others.

What Mestre Salu really did for the cultura nordestina was to show people, through living it, presenting it and preserving it, that it was and is worth keeping alive. I’d even go as far as saying that the reason many Brazilians today are familiar, at least in some way, with the ciranda, pastoril, coco, maracatu, caboclinho, mamulengo, and forró is, whether they know it or not, because of Mestre Salu’s life work.

Part 2

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PernamCubanos

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TV Pernambuco did a piece on a Cuban musical festival called Festival del Caribe which came to Recife for a week in 2008. The festival started in 1981 in Santiago de Cuba and continues til this day. In Recife, there were performances by Eva Griñán and Gabino Jardines, the septet “La Botija,” the trio JJ Son, hip-hop group TNT, the Sax Magic Quartet, Steel Band Cuba (from El Cobre) and the Folk Company Kokoyé.

After seeing the similarities in the two cultures, filmmaker Nilton Pereira made a 30-minute film called Pernamcubanos, “a documentary about the musical, cultural and religious relationship between Pernambuco and Cuba.”

You can see the TVPE report (PT/ES) on the festival and the trailer to the documentary below. If you want to learn more about the Festival del Caribe as it is in Cuba, here’s a touristic documentary (ES/EN) on it. In related news (PT), two years ago the governor of Pernambuco met with the Cuban embassador to Brazil in order to establish points of interest between the two countries.

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Pernambuco’s literary culture is strong

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The Department of Culture of Pernambuco, Fundarpe and the Publishing house CEPE announced the results of the 1st Pernambuco Prize for Literature. Registration in 36 cities in Pernambuco, spread across the four geographical regions of the State, totaled 192 entries. According to the assessment of the Coordinator of Literature of SECULT-PE, Wellington de Melo, the numbers demonstrate the importance of the award.

The big winner is from the Sertão: Bruno Guimarães Liberal, with the storybook “Olho Morto Amarelo”, receiving the R$ 20,000 prize. Other winners were Delmo Montenegro, with the book of poems “Recife, no hay”; Fenando Monteiro, with the novel “O Livro de Corintha”; Joseph Walter Moreira dos Santos, with the storybook “O metal de que somos feitos” and Jeilson José Ferreira da Silva, with the book of poems “Discursos e Anatomias”, receiving R$ 5,000 each. Everyone will receive a first edition made by CEPE.

There were two judging committees composed of writers, scholars and literary critics.

Winners – The results of the award reveal the diversity of literary production in the state. Among the winners are all genres – short stories, novels and poetry – and the works are from the four geographical regions, from cities like Petrolina, Recife, Passira and Vitoria de Santo Antao. “We were very pleased with the results, which show the high level of literary production in the state in all its regions,” said Ricardo Melo, Director of Production and Editing for CEPE.

The winners will have their books published this year by CEPE and participate, in return for the award, in activities within the Literature Secult-PE/Fundarpe schedule of events. Besides the five winners, fifteen other works received honorable mention and their authors will also be invited to perform activities within the Pernambuco Nação Cultural Festival. Check out the full list of winners.

Winners

Grand Prize (R$20,000)

“Olho morto amarelo”, Bruno Guimarães Liberal (Petrolina)

Prizes (R$5 mil)

“O livro de Corintha”, Fernando Antônio de Barros Monteiro (Recife)
“Recife, no hay”, Delmo Montenegro da Silva Júnior (Recife)
“O metal de que somos feitos”, José Walter Moreira dos Santos (Vitória de Santo Antão)
“Discursos e Anatomias”, Jeilson José Ferreira da Silva (Passira)

The Honorable Mentions came mostly from Recife, but also from Capoeiras, Paulista, Olinda, Serra Talhada and Surubim. - Source (PT)

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Pernambuco’s abandoned hotels

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“They were supposed to become symbols of leisure in Pernambuco, but fell through the cracks due to bureaucratic interference and so, throughout the years, the unfinished hotels and flats became ash-colored parts, from North to South, that don’t match well with the vistas of the colorful coastline of Pernambuco. Dormant to tourism and with obsolete architectural projects to be incorporated easily into the current hotel boom in the state, the buildings have assumed other uses within the spacial occupation of the beaches, becoming anywhere from residences to locales to sell drugs.

In the last five years, Pernambuco started receiving investments again from groups that are interested in building new hotels, accounting for 14,700 new beds between 2012 and 2014. The economic moment cooled a previous 15 year blackout period in the sector, when 18 estabilishments were closed down, according to the state’s “Brazilian Association of the Hotel Industry (ABIH-PE)”.

The newspaper Diario, however, has taken the path opposing that of tourists and businessmen by scanning the coastline in search of telling the stories behind the hotel endeavors that today stand in ruins.” – Diario (in PT, more here)

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Info from Diario’s report

• 34 hotels are being built and amplified between 2012 and 2014 in Pernambuco
• 14 hotels are set to be in operation by 2014
• 6 should be ready in 2013

There will be 5,917 “Habitational Units” (UHS) and 14,792 new beds, with:
• 1,960 UHS in Recife
• 2,737 in the Litoral Sul
• 354 in the Litoral Norte
• 866 in the Interior

Global flux of tourists
for Pernambuco in 2012 – 4,782,694

Average stay per tourist
for Pernambuco in 2012 – 7.3 days

Types of Lodging in Pernambuco (By Sept/2012)
• Hotels – 321
• Apart Hotels – 18 
• B&Bs – 610 
• Other estabilishments (Pensions, inns, hostels…) – 165

Total beds in Pernambuco in 2012
71,570 (By Sept/2012)

Source: Setur-PE and ABIH-PE

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Brejo da Guabiraba – The lungs of Recife

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Forget the reoccurring stereotypes about the suburbs of Recife. Swelling populations, lack of planning, sanitation, and sidewalks aren’t enough when taking in the Brejo da Guabiraba. If you really want a cliche, here’s another: the green lungs of the Zona Norte of the city is there.

Limited by the Alto do Refúgio, Dois Unidos, Cajueiro and Beberibe, where the nearby Avenida Norte thickens the flow of cars from BR-101, there are friendly grocery stores, an old bakery, housing annexes and rooftops in excess. But mostly, there are plants. Many of them. In the neighborhood, there are about ten small farms that act as seedbeds. Most plants sold in the elegant nurseries of the city come from there.

“When I came to live here, it was just bushes. There was no road. We’d come home on foot or on a donkey,” recalls Mrs. Lila, 70 years old, the sweet and very popular widow of the man who started the cultivation of ornamental plants in the neighborhood.

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After giving up on the Poço da Panela that watered his plants when it rained, Mr. Severino dos Santos moved into that unexplored Guabiraba marsh with the woman from Paraiba who he’d met in Pina and would soon become his wife. They had ten children and spent more than three decades caring for seeds, seedlings and fertilizers until he died about 15 years ago from problems arising from diabetes.

“There was a time when he was so well known that even Mesbla (a famous, now-defunct dept. store chain) would come to buy his plants! He also rented plants for parties. But he didn’t like it because they often came back in bad shape,” she says, beside her nephew, Geraldo Lima, who helps with the chores.

“I came here seven years ago and never left. I can think of no better place to live in Recife. With my uncle, I learned everything: land deals, knowing what type of soil goes with each plant,” says Gerard, now 44 years old and dedicated to another very common activity in the marsh. As an immediate consequence of the vegetable trade, he prepares handcrafted vases from cement. Of various sizes and prices, they’re far more affordable than in retail stores around Recife.

“Some neighbors saw Severino selling plants and had the idea of ​​doing it as well,” recalls Mrs. Lila. “Mr. Biu (a nickname for Severino) was a master, a teacher, and everyone learned what they know about plants from him,” said a neighbor and also plant-seller Cid Euclides da Silva, 45, a son of another Biu, Severino da Silva, who is also famous in the neighborhood for being one of the pioneers in vegetation. “Oxe, people came from all over. Even agronomists from the university wanted to talk to Severino dos Santos. He would put a bit of dirt on the table and would explain it bit by bit.” – Source (in PT)

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Ó Xente, Pois Não – Short Documentary

Ô Xente, Pois Não is a documentary by Joaquim Assis from 1973 about farmers in Salgadinho, near Garanhuns, Pernambuco. The film resulted in long and free-flowing conversations with around 10 families that do their best against all sorts of difficulties, among them the drought. The point of the ‘short’ is to pass along to the viewer the knowledge of the farmers and the fraternity that binds them.

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Caboclo de Lança – The Warrior

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The caboclo de lança (mestizo with a spear) is a folkloric warrior figure from Pernambuco, tied to the cultural manifestations of Carnival and of Maracatu Rural. It is considered by many to be one of the principal symbols of Pernambucan culture. The other lesser-known names one might hear are lanceiro africano (African spear thrower), caboclo de guiada (another name for lança is guiada) or guerreiro de Ogum (an Ogum warrior).

Its origin is the result of a mixture of Afro-indigenous cultures with other popular manifestations, like Bumba-meu-boi, Caboclinhos, Cavalo-marinho, and Folia de Reis, which can all be found in Pernambuco.

Until the 1920s, the caboclos de lança, mostly workers in sugarcane plantations, did not arouse much interest or fascination since they lived and paraded in the inner cities of Pernambuco. In the 1930s, there was a the decline of the sugarcane mills and, with it, the growth of industrialization and modernization of the economy. This resulted from the Revolution of 1930 and thus brought about the displacement of people from the countryside to the cities and the coast. With those people, the rich traditions of the Zona da Mata (sugarcane region) arrived in Recife, including (and especially during Carnival), Maracatu Rural and its colorful characters.

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The ritual that precedes the presentation of the caboclo de lança, whether in the countryside or in the city, involves ceremonies that happen on sacred land (terreiros). They include the blessing of the spears and the flower that goes in the caboclo’s mouth, the consecration of the calunga (a doll representing divinity, held by the Bahian figure in the parade), and also a promise (by the man) of sexual abstinence, which starts a few days before Carnival.

For more info, here is a great blog (in PT) by Anna Anjos called Cocada Preta which, towards the bottom, speaks about Maracatu, including how it ties into African religions. Each post of hers is like a dissertation, and only for those who really want to dig in. Also, if you want to learn about the making of the outfit, you can check out a very small section (from 22:10 – 23:30) of this documentary (PT).

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The Death and Life of Severino

“Morte e Vida Severina” (translated in part by Elizabeth Bishop as “The Death and Life of Severino”), João Cabral de Melo Neto‘s most famous work, is a very long narrative poem (in most editions over 80 pages long) that describes the life of a poor rural man in the dry northeastern part (more specifically, Pernambuco) of Brazil.

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Short Documentary – Mestre Vitalino

A short documentary on famous Pernambucan potter Mestre Vitalino. His artwork can be seen in museums in Rio de Janeiro, Recife and in the Louvre, in Paris.

More

TV Brasil – De Lá Pra Cá
Part 1, Part 2 & Part 3

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Italy in Pernambuco

Too early for Carnival? Afraid so. Too early to dream (and possibly plan)? Of course not!

My last mention of the party of all parties revolved around the city of Recife but I´d bet that few have heard of the Italianesque Carnival of inland Pernambuco. A little more than 60 miles from Recife lies the city of Bezerros, often called the Land of Papangus. A Pap-what, you ask? A Papangu! Its a person that disguises themself with a Venetian-like mask and a long tunic, among other things, during Carnival-time across Pernambuco, especially in the city of Bezerros where such traditions are strongest.

The unique custom dates back to around 1880´s when the “papa-angu” was born from tomfoolery instigated by the relatives of sugar cane barons during Carnival celebrations. There, they would eat “angu”, (a coarse polenta) which is a typical food of the semi-arid regions of the Northeast. The verb papar, in kid-speak, means to eat, thus the name papa-angu. Tiny tikes, as it turns out, don´t always take a liking to the costumed crowd. Looking at the picture below, I can see why.

Generally, nothing can be discerned from seeing a papangu on the street, aside from their height and manner of movement. Who they are, whether they be male or female, old or young, is unknown. The revelers even go so far as to hide their costumes as they are being created in order to provide complete anonymity. One would think that such secrecy would presumably make it hard for groups to form, or in the very least, to know who is who, though hitting the streets with friends and family is quite popular..

If you´re interested in a visit next year, be mindful that the 2011 version attracted 200,000 people just on Carnival Sunday, the most popular day during the festivities and also when best costumes are chosen. Although it is likely you´d never be able to tell in the midst of all the costumed fun, residents of Recife are said to “religiously” attend during the weekend and it´s not even uncommon for some families to have a country house there as well.

Hopefully, Carnival revelry isn´t all you carve out for your trip inland. The beautiful vistas of the Serra Negra Ecological Park can be appreciated nearby, too.

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